Sunday, June 20, 2010

Breakfast in Nha Trang

While everyone we've met so far in Vietnam has advised against Nha Trang ("too many buildings," "too many tourists"), our brief stop here while in transit from Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh has been quite pleasant. After twelve hours on one of Vietnam's renowned sleeper buses filled with reclining, bunk-bed-like seats, Brian and I were desperate to have our feet on the ground before hopping onto yet another bus.

Nha Trang is oriented primarily around its surrounding beaches and water. Therefore, we deemed it appropriate to clunk ourselves down at the Veranda Cafe right on the city's main beach. For only $2 each, we ordered their set breakfast menu consisting of eggs on toast, tomato, mushrooms, bacon, sausage, and fresh fruit. And now? It's back to the bus. Kill me, please....

Friday, June 18, 2010

Leaving for Singapore in Three Days...

...and while there, I'm clearly doing this: http://www.spi.com.sg/news/tours/index.htm

Granted, I recognize the majority of my time will be spent watching robots compete at RoboCup 2010 (I kid you not: http://www.robocup2010.org/competitions.php), but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to fit in some time for the Singapore Paranormal Investigators (SPI). Super(non)human robots and creepy ghost stories, here I come!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Hoi An

What is it with the long bus rides?!

After 20+ more hours in two separate buses in the past day, I have finally made it to Hoi An, the beachy tailoring town along the central coast of Vietnam. Far from the hustle and bustle (read: overwhelming chaos) of Hanoi, I already feel much more at ease here. No need to worry about being run over by a stray motorcycles or chased down by street sellers! It's kind of a relief.

Tomorrow, I'm off to the beach...Our hotel offers complimentary bicycles, so my plan is to bike the 5k outside of town. Should be nice. Also on the menu is a trip to a tailor to get my measurements taken for the deliciously plush silk robe and pajamas I'm going to have made for under $30 USD. Yes, be jealous.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

“Hock,” Spit, Aviators, and Broken Down Buses: The Long Journey from Laos to Vietnam

Over the past three days, Brian and I have been almost constantly in transit, moving from one place to another. After deciding that three days in the lovely Luang Prabang was probably enough (although we could have stayed there for weeks), we made our way to a local travel agent to a) purchase our Vietnamese visas, and b) book transportation over to Hanoi, Vietnam.

A delightful man with relatively good English informed us that he would recommend we take the local bus from Luang Prabang over to Sam Neua, at which point we could hop on another bus to the Laos-Vietnam border, then hop on a third bus directly to Hanoi. Pleased with this plan, we bought tickets for the first leg from Luang Prabang to Sam Neua. Simple enough, we figured…

Below is a detailed recap of Day 12 - Day 14 of the “Brian and Carlyn Do SE Asia” backpacking trip. Keep in mind that while much of this may seem disastrous, it was not altogether unpleasant. In fact, any person with even a small hint of a sense of humor would have found the trip to be quite delightful:

Day 12:

4:30 PM--Despite the gurgling stomach--a reminder of the past few days’ stomach bug--Brian and I make our way to Luang Prabang’s North Bus Station via tuk-tuk. We’ve spent the morning frolicking and swimming in the beautiful Kuang Si waterfalls and are feeling relatively refreshed and gung-ho about our upcoming trip.

5:30 PM--Bus still hasn’t come. I love the whole laid-back culture thing, but must everything be hours late? I insist on asking the guy at the ticket counter when the bus will actually come, but he assures me with a smile that “the bus will come.” Yeah, okay. But when?

6:04 PM-- The bus does come, and unlike the wonderful air-conditioned coach buses we’ve grown accustomed to riding, this one is a decrepit old school bus…And it’s packed to the brim with people. Also, we’re the only foreigners on the bus, and as soon as we board, we attract a steady stream of stares. Luckily, I find a spare seat and a half, on to which Brian and I each squeeze approximately one butt cheek. The Laos woman in front of me vomits into a plastic bag.

6:15 PM--We’ve been on the bus for just over ten minutes, and the bus has already stopped approximately four times to let on more people. I begin to understand why this is the “local bus.” The guy in the seat behind me decides he wants to watch me listen to my iPod, so he positions his head on my right shoulder.

7:07 PM--MORE PEOPLE.

7:35PM--The bus makes a brief stop to--you guessed it--pick up more people. Approximately half of the bus files off to pop a squat next to the road. Brian and I begin to plot a means of escape.

7:37 PM--Starting now, the next fifteen hours will consist of one single replayed Asian pop CD blasted to an unbearably loud degree. All thoughts of escape are temporarily abandoned, as neither Brian nor I can hear ourselves think.

9:30 PM--Time, surprisingly, seems to move forward, albeit still at turtle-like speed. Brian and I somehow manage to make ourselves comfortable for an hour or two, during which we both take short naps.


Day 13:


1:02 AM -- Hallelujah! As we progress slowly through the mountains towards Sam Neua, passengers one-by-one get off at each of the tiny villages we pass. The bus is emptying out…Brian moves across the aisle, so that now I’m able to comfortable squeeze the entirety of my bottom onto one seat.


4:15 AM -- For some reason, the bus driver decides to take a break from Asian pop in order to play a 45-minute CD of 90’s American hits, including Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On.”

9:30 AM--Sam Neua! Sam Neua! Sam Neua!

9:33 AM-- The man behind the Sam Neua bus station ticket counter informs us that the only bus that leaves for the Vietnam border has already come and gone for the day. Great.

10:00 AM -- Brian and I hitch a ride into a somewhat deserted town. Turns out, Sam Neua is part of the least touristy province in all of Laos. Sure feels as though we’re the only two foreigners within 100 kms--at  the very least. Lots of government buildings, lots of Laos men in government/military uniform. Brian and I manage to find a nice little guest house off a back alley for 60,000 kip/night.

10:05 AM -- There is no power throughout all of Sam Neua. Turned off at 5am, then turned back on at 6pm due to “government maintenance.” Without a fan, it’s already looking to be a long day.

1:00 PM -- Must. Find. Food. The two of us venture out in search of sustenance, only to find that the only restaurant in town that’s still operating without power is the local Indian dig. Not sure how my still vulnerable stomach will handle it, I eat some chicken tikka regardless; I’m pretty much starved after the 17-hour bus ride.

2:00 PM -- Yup, Indian food was a terrible idea. I hurry to a bathroom, only to discover that it’s merely a hole in the ground. FML.

Day 14:

5:30 AM-- Rise and shine to the crowing of roosters and the squealing of a soon-to-be-slaughtered pair of hogs. Brian and I make our way over to the ATM booth in order to draw out some money for our upcoming bus ride from Sam Neua over to Vietnam.

5:34 AM -- Odd sight: The entire female population of Sam Neua is out, brooms in hands. They’re sweeping the streets. At 5:30 AM. Do they do this every morning??

5:36 AM -- Why didn’t we get money out last night?! The ATM machine doesn’t run without power…

7:30 AM -- At the bus station, I use random signs and body language to convince the bus driver to allow Brian and me to purchase our tickets with the last few twenty-dollar US bills I have in my wallet. He says yes, and we shake hands. This is the beginning of a very beautiful friendship. Meanwhile, two other foreigners show up: Elizabeth from Switzerland and Kevin from Tallahassee, Florida.

7:45 AM -- The bus breaks down…for the first time.

11:00 AM -- We make it safe and sound to the border, where the Vietnamese guards searching our bags are immediately intrigued by the purple and yellow Nike soccer ball we’ve carried with us (note: Brian bought it for me in Australia; I convinced him we needed to, for some reason, bring it with us to SE Asia). “How much?” one of the guards asks us. As Brian begins to prepare himself for a little haggling, I very generously say “Free. Take it!” Brian initially gives me a “wtf?!” look, but soon appreciates the hearty handshakes and big smiles bestowed upon us.

11:01 AM -- As we drive away from the border in our minibus, we see the two guards in their military uniforms juggling and passing the ball around behind us.


For the most part, the lengthy story ends here, although I must add that the bus broke down at least four more times throughout our trip from the border to Thanh Hoa in Vietnam. Lucky for us, the terribly run-down vehicles here are complemented by excellent drivers and mechanics.

Once in Thanh Hoa, Brian, the two other travelers, and I decided we'd had enough of the bus and would take the train from Thanh Hoa up to Hanoi--only a three to four hour drive. While depressing to learn that the next train didn't leave for another six hours, we were pleasantly surprised to hear that it would only cost us 47,000 dong (about $2.50) compared to the almost $12 we would have paid on the bus.(Note: I do indeed realize that during my time here in SE Asia, I have become disgustingly cheap. Don't hate.)

The next six hours consisted of roaming around and exploring the relatively deadbeat Thanh Hoa. In search for food, we ended up in a Vietnamese family's living room, where the matron of the house served us some delicious pho accompanied by plates of rice with a chicken head and chicken feet on top. I say this nonchalantly now, but imagine my shock when I realized the chicken head still had some hairs. Whether or not I ate it I'll leave up to the imagination...

A few hours later, we boarded the train. Two words: hard benches. Turns out train travel in Vietnam (China, too) includes an extensive amount of choice; you can select to travel by "hard seat", by "soft seat," "hard sleeper," or "soft sleeper." Clearly we had been slammed in hard seat and were now surrounded by Vietnamese men and women who had, prepared, brought straw mats on which to lie on the floor. Damn, I thought to myself. What we had assumed would be a comfortable and easy three hours up to Hanoi turned out to be three of the longest hours of my life.

Bottom sore and eyes heavy, we finally arrived Hanoi at approximately 4:00 AM in the morning. Fortunately, reception was 24 hours. Unfortunately, we would have to wait until 8:30 to check in. Fortunately, the receptionist allowed us to check our email via the free internet stations in the lobby. Unfortunately, I was too tired to even look at a computer screen. Fortunately, he said we could spend the night on the lobby couches and floor, and provided us with pillows and blankets. People are so unbelievably kind here.

And so the story does really end here. Five hours later, the four of us were woken up by the now on-shift receptionist, who informed us our rooms were ready. Bruised and exhausted, we made our way up to the lovely rooms and collapsed on our beds, thanking god for mattresses, showers, and air-conditioning. Welcome to Hanoi.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

A Little Stomach Bug

It was that chicken, I think. That delicious, barbequed chicken that little hole-in-the-wall at the night market was selling for only 10,000 kip. That tempting delicious aroma that, in retrospect, I wish I had fought more readily against. Oh man, but it just tasted SO good.

Yeah, well today I’m kicking myself a little bit--a literal kick to the stomach, if you will. Last night I lay in bed with a nauseated stomach, cursing myself for yet again allowing myself be thrown off balance by a chicken. 

At this point, I think I ought to explain. You see, I have a history with farm birds--particularly chickens. When I was in the Dominican Republic summer back after my 9th grade year in high school, I  went to market just like most people do in the Dominican Republic every day. My hosts had said “Find chicken!” and given me some cash.

Of course, I was a naïve freshmen; I assumed that even third-world countries would have frozen chickens ready to be weighed and bought per pound…Chyea, no. Once I finally found the poultry section of market, I found that--oh dear--all the chickens were recently butchered and skinned, ready for my purchase. Bravely, however, I approached the nearest chicken shop and innocently asked: “Puedo tener un pollo?”

The woman behind the counter smiled at me, and before I knew it she was headed out back for a bit, while meanwhile I heard loud “bok boks” and other chicken-created noises coming from her direction. She came back with a live chicken writhing in her hand. “Este?” she asked. “Oh, I mean, that looks like a nice chicken…,” I responded. And before I had time to finish my sentence with “….but I’d prefer an already dead one,“ she laid the chicken down on a block of wood behind the counter, picked up a nearby axe-like instrument, and chopped off the chicken’s head. Dios mio.


SO, as you might have guessed, this little stomach bug I’ve picked up here is oddly disgruntling. And uncomfortable. Plus, to top things off, I’ve also just discovered that my computer has a few bugs of it’s own…No, like, real ants or something. They’ve made themselves at home under my keyboard and come up to say “sabaidee” (“hello” in Laos--I’m assuming they’re Laos ants) and walk along my lit up computer screen whenever it‘s on. How delightful.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

It's Evening on the Mekong River...

...And I've lazily situated myself at the lovely Big Tree Cafe overlooking the Mekong River in Luang Prabang, Laos. It's been a hectic day or two of traveling. After a brief day-and-a-half exploring Vientiane, Brian and I took the five-hour bus north to Vang Vieng. Here we discovered that what was once most likely a nice little river escape has been transformed into a heavily touristed mecca, made up of video bars, tourist offices, and guest houses. In other words, Brian and I ended up drinking a few BeerLao while watching the entirety of Friends, Season 5. We really got a feel of the true Laos experience...(please know I'm kidding).

This morning we took the six-hour minivan to Luang Prabang, a drive that took us along the single winding road through Laos' beautiful mountains and limestone cliffs. (Pictures to come). Once we arrived, we did a bit of shopping around for accommodation, until we finally came across a beautiful guesthouse right on the river for only 60,000 kip/night (that's about $3 each between the two of us). Found an internet cafe, bought myself some pineapple juice, and now watching the sun set over the Mekong.

I might never want to leave...

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Quick Update

After five (ish...I've kind of last track of the time here already) days of idyllic island-hopping in Thailand, Brian and I made our way across the Thai-Laos border last night. Note: Our border crossing is a story all unto itself, as a minor hurricane decided to roar its way through the check-point, blowing out the electricity on its way and almost taking us out with it too...

But regardless, we're now safe and sound in the Laos capital city of Vientiane. We've checked in to a lovely little hotel/hostel that has--wait for it--HOT water and AIR-CON (also a television that so wonderfully broadcasted the movie Keeping the Faith...whatever happened to Jenna Elfman? I love her...).Today we plan to explore a bit, as well as book our bus tickets to Luang Prabang for tomorrow.

It's hard to believe we've only been here a week...Feels like months!